The Ruins of Tulum

Almost 13 years ago, with 2 teenagers and 2 toddlers in tow, my husband and I day tripped from Playa del Carmen to Tulum to see the Mayan Ruins.  Back then Tulum was not much more than a sleepy little town;  a place for locals with very little tourist infrastructure.  But that was then.

Accommodations with beautiful gardens and Mayan Architecture

The Tulum of today is a destination city; a place for fun and sun without the crowds of the typical Mayan Riviera locations of Cancun and Playa del Carmen.  Backpackers have been coming here for years, but now, Tulum is for everyone!  People may still come for the Ruins, but now they stay for the week; or two.

For a number of people, the pristine beaches are a draw, and many never leave their little “seaside haven.”  How sad for them;  Tulum has so much more to offer.  Without going very far at all, you can visit the only Mayan Ruin located on the coast, the Ruins of Tulum.  And venturing just a little bit further, you can visit the Ruins of Coba as well.  You can swim with sea tortoises in the bay at Akumal or explore the many cenotes (water caves) of the area.  Wildlife your thing?  Take a trip to Sian Ka’an, a 650,000 hector protected area where you can experience the multitude of flora and fauna species, many rarely found elsewhere.

Then there’s the town of Tulum, filled with restaurants, hotels, bars, cybercafes and shops.  You can have your fill of great Mexican food and beer and when you’ve had your fill of that, check out other spots for Italian,  French and Japanese. Town has the typical selection of  “tourist shops” for “cheap” souvenirs , but if you’re in the market for some higher end artisan gifts, fear not, Tulum has its options for that as well.

The Pristine Beaches of Tulum

If you’ve visited Cancun and Playa del Carmen in the past, try Tulum for a kinder and gentler Mayan Riviera experience.  If you’ve not yet visited this area of Mexico at all,  what are you waiting for?

When I was young and single, the time between Christmas and New Year’s always meant vacation planning time.  It was a period where I had more disposable time on my hands and it gave me something exciting to look forward to in the year ahead.  These days, more often than not, my vacation planning starts on the plane ride home from my last vacation; I want something to look forward to before my last travels end!  Also, more people travel these days so one has to get going sooner than later or opportunities will pass you by.

This year, my family is heading to France!  France was one of those countries we passed on when traveling the world.  We told our kids that France is just across the pond and easy to get to, so we’ll catch it another time.  Well, this year they reminded us that this summer is as good a time as any to “catch it another time” so there you go.  But deciding to travel outside your own country raises some different issues to consider with the number issue being money:  exchange rates, payment options and how and when to get the cash you need.

Travel to Ecuador, Panama or East Timor (just to name a few) is somewhat easier, they use the US dollar.  There’s no exchange rate to deal with, but unless you’re going to travel with enough cash for your entire trip, you still need to figure out how to obtain your currency.  And just because they use the US dollar, don’t think you can avoid foreign transaction fees – you are still in a foreign country and the banks will get you anytime they can.

Prior to my very first trip abroad, I loaded up on travelers’ checks; that was a very long time ago.  Now, nobody wants travelers checks so don’t bother.  Often you will have to wait in long bank lines to cash them and no one wants to have to do that.  Credit cards are easy to use but I have found that unless you’re staying in the finest of places or eating in the nicer restaurants, outside the US, nobody really wants those either.  Here in the US, merchants are much more willing to eat the fee associated with credit cards.  Outside the US, they are not eating those fees as readily.  Sometimes there are merchants that will accept credit cards but charge you 2% more than their cash price; others just don’t take the plastic.  Carry a card with you but don’t count on it being your primary source of purchasing power.  Before you leave, find a credit card that doesn’t charge foreign transaction fees.  Yes, you will still have to deal with the exchange rate (that will be there no matter what) but you can save a lot of money if you don’t have to pay foreign transaction fees on top of everything else.

I have found the number one way to obtain cash while traveling abroad is to use your ATM card.  You withdraw cash in the local currency and usually get a very fair exchange rate.  You can obtain cash as you go so you don’t have to carry huge sums of cash at any given point.  And, if you find the right banking account, you won’t even have to pay any ATM fees along the way.  Prior to our year long trip, we switched our regular checking account to the premium account at our bank.  By doing so, all ATM transactions worldwide became free of charge.  No only does our bank not charge any fees, but if the local bank charges fees, our bank will reimburse us for those charges.

I have never encountered an airport that did not have an ATM machine.  I have however, been in situations where the ATM at the airport is not working, dispensing only a limited amount of money or I didn’t have time to stop at the ATM because I had a time restriction (like the need to catch a local bus).  If you are insecure about arriving to a country without at least some foreign currency, you can typically obtain some from your bank at home (plan ahead, it may take them a little while to obtain it for you) or exchange money at the airport at a foreign currency exchange.  Please note that typically you receive a terrible exchange rate at these exchanges so don’t plan on getting a lot of money there – just get what you might need until a better option presents itself.  While the advertised rate may look good, fees and or service charges tacked onto these rates quickly turn your transaction into a WIN for the exchange and a major LOOSE for you.

If you are traveling to a smaller country, take the time to research your currency exchange options.  We were heading to Easter Island and discovered there was only one ATM machine on the island and that one machine only worked off of ATM cards linked to MasterCard.  Our bank ATM cards were linked to VISA.  We needed to obtain large amounts of cash in Tahiti (our stop prior to Easter Island) and then exchange them to US dollars before arriving to Easter Island where we could take our US dollars and convert them to the local currency.  We got screwed on the exchange rate twice but at least we had money to pay for stay!

Guest blogger Paige Desroches shares her insights on keeping kids safe when flying on their own.

As parents consider whether to send a child to visit family, go to a camp or travel for any other reason without adult supervision, a wide range of worries can come to mind. Parents might worry about a child remaining hungry, feeling bored, getting sick or missing a connecting flight. Sending Junior and Sissy off into the great wide world alone can be more stressful on the parents than the children. While it is hard not to worry about the little travelers, parents can maintain peace of mind with a few tips that avoid the concerns.

Limiting Worries With Information

Beyond setting up a service to help children reach their connection and finding ways to protect personal data that a child might carry, parents can obtain peace of mind by giving children enough information to reduce the risk of complications. As posted on TravelWithYourKids.com, parents should have children memorize details like their flight itinerary, the name and phone number of the individual meeting them at the airport, emergency contact numbers and a home phone number in case delays or other problems occur.

Since a child is traveling alone and will need to carry some identifying information, parents should take measures to protect that data. A simple solution is using the services of a company like Lifelock to monitor a child’s credit information before the trip. Identity theft protection services will alert parents to any activity on the account, which provides the ability to act quickly if a child has lost papers with personal information or has faced problems during the trip.

Children who are armed with phone numbers, a calling card and the details of their trip, are less likely to face problems on the flight. By giving children emergency numbers and a calling card or cell phone to make phone calls in emergency situations, parents can feel confident that children are safe on their flight.

Missed Connection Mishaps

Missed connections are a risk for any traveler, but airlines often have escorts that assist children traveling alone to help ensure they reach their final destination. Fox News reports that parents need to trust their children to reach their connecting flight, even if a service is hired as a chaperon. Parents can reduce the risk of a child missing a connection by ensuring he or she understands the flight itinerary before reaching the airport.

Offer Advice to Reduce the Risk of Thefts or Problems

Before leaving a child at the airport, parents should give some advice to reduce potential problems related to strangers. According to Gadling.com, travelers who are alone should carry their bags in front of them and should never tell strangers that they are alone. The risks are reduced if children understand that they need to be wary of strangers and only ask help from an individual in a uniform. Children traveling alone will be safe if they are cautious of strangers at the airport.

While parents will always worry about their children, taking measures to ensure child safety on a flight can reduce the concerns. Children who are old enough to travel without a parent are also old enough to remember phone numbers and limit the risks of flying alone. Adding to the stress is never a good thing for anyone. Keeping your children informed of these tips will not only keep them safe and calm, from personal information to luggage safety, but will take away layers and layers of worry for you.

Scarlet Macaw - National Bird of Honduras

The Maya Ruins of Copan is typically what brings tourists to this remote area of Western Honduras.  But as long as you have gone to the trouble to get there, you might just as well unpack and stay a while as the city of Copan Ruinas is a lovely town.  And as long as you’re staying for more than the night, you should take the time to venture out to Macaw Mountain.

Only 3 km, or 6 minutes via mototaxi (tuk-tuk) from the central square, nestled in a small canyon on ten heavily forested acres, is this multi-faceted eco-tourism project.  The park provides visitors an opportunity to see the exotic tropical birds of Honduras and a natural botanical garden of native plants and towering hardwood trees.  While the temperatures may be hot on the day of your visit, in this little oasis, it’s cool, comfortable and refreshing.

The park has a collection of Honduran and Central American macaws, toucans and parrots that have been recovered from captivity.  All the birds are carefully maintained and can fly freely in large naturally planted aviaries.  I would never claim to be the biggest bird watcher in the world but these birds are just stunning and we couldn’t stop marveling at their colorful presence.  The birds’ beauty, however, is rivaled by the array of tropical plants that line the walkways.  The entire park is truly magnificent.

With a strong eco-educational component, trails are dotted with information boards that are in both Spanish and English.  There is also an extensive exhibit that considers the relationship between the ancient Maya of Copan and the birds, particularly the magnificent Scarlet Macaw.  This exhibit is in an interactive area where uncaged birds are available to photograph and interact with park guests.

The facilities at Macaw Mountain are first class.  There is a restaurant, beautifully situated stream side, which offers full lunches.  In addition to the restaurant, there is a coffee house with a perfect setting to relax and enjoy some freshly brewed Mirmundo Coffee, coffee that has been grown, harvested and roasted on the park’s coffee plantation.  And, of course, there is a gift shop.  While we did not partake of lunch on either of our two visits, we did enjoy a coffee granita (frozen coffee drink) at the coffee house.

Macaw Mountain is open everyday from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM.  This beauty does not come cheap, however, with a price tag of $10.00 per person.  To help defray the cost they do allow you to use your ticket again within three days, however, realistically speaking, how many travelers are actually going to come back.  But even with the high price, I think a trip to Macaw Mountain is well worth your time.

Central Square - Copan Ruinas

In the western highlands of Honduras, closer to Guatemala than any large city in Honduras, is the city of Copan Ruinas.  At least three hours from any large city, the town of Copan Ruinas is not a town you stumble upon.  If you are here, it’s by intention, not by accident.  And what brings most people to town are the Maya Ruins of Copan just 1 km outside of town. 

Fruit Vendor in Central Square - Copan Ruinas

People come from all over the world to see these ancient ruins but typically stay in the town of Copan Ruinas for only a day or two.  For us, the town is home for 17 days.

The urban population of Copan Ruinas is around 6000 people.  If you add in the rural areas, the population increases to 30,000.  Because of its tourism, the town of Copan Ruinas experiences less poverty than the rest of the country of Honduras but of course, that’s not saying much since Honduras is the second poorest country in the Western Hemisphere – second only to Haiti.

Sometimes the Cows are in the Pasture - Sometimes in the Street

The town has a small handful of things to do for the tourists:  The Maya Ruins of  Copan and its museum, Macaw Mountain bird sanctuary, coffee plantation tours, hot springs, horseback riding and nature hikes.  This could keep a person busy for 3-4 days.  The only reason to stay in Copan Ruinas for any longer is to study Spanish in one of the two immersion language schools or to just experience the tranquil life of a small Honduran town; we opted for the later two. 

Copan Ruinas has a Stunning Array of Tropical Flowers

They say it is always spring in Copan Ruinas.  I guess “their” definition of spring is a little different than mine.  We’ve been here for a week now and we haven’t seen a high below 88° F.  Add to that the intense sun of a country close to the equator and you have a climate that’s plain old hot; not my definition of eternal spring!  On the other hand, our hometown of Cincinnati, OH has had highs of 95-105° F for weeks now, so I guess it’s all relative.  88° looks a lot more like spring than 100° F.

Scarlet Macaws - National Bird of Honduras

Fountain Square, Cincinnati

For 12 years I lived in Washington, DC.  It’s a US city, but it’s an international city.  Walk down the street and you will see people of every nationality.  Sit down in any restaurant, theater or park bench and you will hear the person next to you speaking a different language.  And when you’re going out to eat, it’s not, “Where do you want to eat,” it’s “What national cuisine do you want to eat.”

Kids arrive for the World Choir Games

Then I moved to Cincinnati, the place where my husband lived.  After living here for a week, my husband asked, “What do you think?”  I said, “Everyone is white and speaks English and where am I going to get a good Pad Thai or Saag Paneer?”  That was over 19 years ago.  A lot has changed in 19 years, for the better I might add, but it hasn’t been till this week that I have felt Cincinnati to be an international city.  And that’s because this week, it really is!

For the first time in its 12 year history, the World Choir Games are being held in North America and they picked little ole Cincinnati to be the host.  Now, if you’re like most people, you have no idea what the World Choir Games are.

The Countdown is Over

Think Olympics of choral music.  Nations from all over the world come together to “compete” using their voices.  I say “compete” because while you are trying to shine and be the best, the reality is, you are competing only against yourself.  If you’re great, you win a gold “medal.”  And if another team is great, they too win a gold “medal.”  So while your numbers may outrank another choir, multiple choirs can win golds, or silvers or bronzes.

Why did Cincinnati win the bid for the 2012 World Choir Games.  Well, we don’t know all the details that went into the decision making process, but the city’s commitment to the arts is exceptional.  The artistic opportunities in this city far exceed those of any other city this size.  And there are plenty of arts patrons to support these artistic opportunities.

Brazil All Reved Up for the Games

And then there’s the venues; a size able number of theaters all within close proximity to each other.  Cincinnati’s May Festival Choir is the oldest continuous choir in the Western Hemisphere and the Cincinnati Symphony Orchestra is the 5th oldest symphony in the United States.  It probably didn’t hurt that we have the only K-12 public arts school, The School for the Creative and Performing Arts, in the world.

So this year, from July 4th through July 14th, Cincinnati has become an international city.  64 nations have sent more than 350 choirs to the city to participate in this year’s games.  For the first time since I’ve moved to Cincinnati, I can see people of all different nationalities walking down the streets and hear languages from half way around the world.  It’s an exciting time to be in this city.  If you live close by, be sure to participate in one of the many events to occur during the last four days.

Celebration of Nations Parade - Nigeria

As for that Pad Thai and Saag Paneer, well I now have a Thai restaurant and four Indian restaurants within walking distance of my home, so all is well.

Celebration of Nations Parade - China

Celebration of Nations Parade - Columbia

I get seasick!  So any type of vacation that involves boats or ships is not likely to be high on my bucket list.  But for the multitude of people out there who don’t suffer like me, cruising is a great vacation option; especially with young children.  Thank you Karolina Shenton, my guest blogger, for giving us all a perspective of cruising with a toddler.

When I decided to have my first baby, lots of people told me that travel would become difficult; if not impossible, and we wouldn’t be able to get around anymore. My husband and I were showered with tales of nightmarish vacations with small children and parents reminiscing about the days when it was easy to pick up and see the world.

Fast-forward two years. My daughter is almost two and a half and she’s the greatest kid you’ll ever meet. Furthermore she’s proven to be the best travel companion I’ve ever had. Not only is travel with her easy, it’s also far more rewarding than it was prior to motherhood. Sure, we’ve had to do things a little differently, but different isn’t bad. Different is awesome, because it’s given my family a reason to try something new.

Sophie and I in the Kiddie Pool Onboard

About two weeks before my daughter’s second birthday we decided to take her on her first cruise. We picked a cruise to the Eastern Caribbean since we hadn’t done it before and the islands had something for everyone in the family. Having cruised before, we knew that the boarding process would be a snap. Cruises make the details so easy; you sometimes forget all the headaches of land-based travel. As we made our way to Florida and then onto the ship, we had no snags or surprises whatsoever. Our flight to Florida was a piece of cake, even for a toddler, and the bus transfer to the ship was a fascinating adventure for our little one. Once on-board, we quickly made our way to our stateroom to drop off our carry-on bags and started our vacation.

The Islands

Our first port was St. Maarten and we scheduled a visit to the famous Orient Bay beach. St. Maarten is a unique island because it’s divided between French and Dutch colonies. Orient Bay is on the French side, thus the beach is “clothing optional.” Since I’m European, this didn’t faze me a bit and because its part of the local culture, nobody really takes notice of the lack of tan lines. It’s beach business as usual. Orient Bay is a sheltered beach, allowing little wave action and superb clarity. As a mom, this was really important to me, since I didn’t want to contend with dangerous surf with my toddler around (like we do at our home beaches). We just popped on her floaties and had a blast at the water’s edge. The water was like a warm, clear pool, except there were loads of cool things to look at (other than the occasional naked person). We ate a great lunch provided as part of our excursion and had a wonderful time.

Sophie at Magen's Bay Beach

Our next port was St. Thomas, which is one of the U.S. Virgin Islands. My husband went scuba diving and my daughter and I took an excursion to Magen’s Bay, another beach. Again, we had a perfect day. The beaches in the Eastern Caribbean are flat, clean, warm, clear and mellow. It’s an ideal place for a toddler to explore the ocean. Magen’s Bay is less commercial than some other beaches and has lots of trees to provide shade and a picturesque backdrop. We met other families on the beach and the kids became fast friends. After a wonderful day, we took a quick 20-minute ride back to the ship and rested before dinner.

Sophie Kissing Clifton the Dolphin

The last port on our itinerary was Nassau, on New Providence Island, Bahamas. Here, we booked the Blue Lagoon dolphin encounter. Let me start by saying that I wasn’t without my doubts before getting to the island. I’m not one to take dolphin captivity lightly, however when we arrived, I was pleasantly surprised. The facility was very nice and well maintained. The animals were in excellent health and were able to come and go from the interaction area as they pleased. Nothing was forced. However, what impressed me the most was the look on my daughter’s face when she saw our dolphin, named Clifton, she was beaming from ear to ear. Some other kids were a bit apprehensive, but not my girl! We all arranged ourselves along a platform and waited for Clifton to approach each of us to interact.

Sophie Exploring The Blue Lagoon

Not only did my daughter watch Mom and Dad rub Clifton’s tummy, she got down there and did it herself! She even kissed Clifton at his request! Now, how many two year olds can say they’ve kissed a dolphin.

To top off the great day, the beach on the island was a perfect place to relax and watch my daughter splash in the shallows, while I caught some rays and relaxed, which is why we vacation.

The Ship

Sophie Loved the Towel Animals - The Monkey Was Her Favorite

Our stateroom was also the perfect place for our family. We wanted a balcony to enjoy the view, however we had concerns about the safety of the balcony with a toddler. We were thrilled to discover that the door could securely latch and was too heavy for a little person to open. So we got to decide when she went outside and when she stayed inside. Our sleeping arrangements were also perfect. My husband and I enjoyed a nice king sized bed, while we were provided a comfortable crib for our daughter. She felt right at home since Mom and Dad were so near by and we all had plenty of room to stretch out. However the best part of our room was the service we received from our cabin steward. Each night, he folded towels in the shape of an animal and left them on the bed as a surprise. About half way through the week, we would ask our daughter what animal she wanted, tell our cabin steward in the morning and her request would be waiting for us in our room at the end of the day. Simply amazing! Who knew you could make a monkey out of a towel!

A Napkin Doll for Sophie

Even in the formal dining rooms, the staff was prepared to keep our daughter entertained and engaged in the experience with things to color and games to play. One staff member even made a doll out of a napkin for her. I think one of the things that parents fear when traveling with their kids abroad is not being able to locate enough safe, kid-friendly food. Our ship had so many choices of everything imaginable, feeding my daughter was no problem whatsoever. Most importantly, they had loads of healthy choices for her to eat, not just fries and pizza (although they have that too.)

But the best part of mealtime was the dining room staff. Being two years old, cookies are my daughter’s favorite dessert. At our first dinner, we noticed that cookies were not an option on the dessert menu, however we only had to ask once, and each night the whole week, our waiter made a special trip to the lido deck to bring our little one a selection of cookies. That’s what I call service!

So in response to all the naysayers out there, who are telling people that parenthood marks the end of your traveling days, I say nonsense! Not only is it possible, it’s super easy and super economical and it’s a source of some of the best family memories you’ll have.

As part of a traveling families group writing project, we decided to tackle the tough question of “When we decided to travel, was it because we were running to something or running away from something?  Were we happy in our lives back home or were we just seeking something else?”  If you have any preconceptions that traveling is a mindless escape, you should join this group where you are constantly being challenged to examine your life.

My story begins when I was nine years old.  My parents took my older sister and me to Europe.  It was one of those three week, five country, whirlwind trips, but no matter, I thought it was way too cool.  Back then, nine year old kids didn’t go to Europe with the frequency they do now.  I liked trying the new foods, hearing the different languages, experiencing unique cultures and seeing things I had only previously seen or read about in books.  I remember wearing an Austrian dirndl purchased on the trip to my first day of fourth grade and thinking that I was truly special.

When I got older, I took a number of trips on my own.  I wish I had taken more but I suffered from the same problem that many others suffer from:  I either had time but no money or money but no time.  And being the practical, rational American that I am, I couldn’t seem to work through this dilemma.  During the earlier days of my career, I had a client who decided that he, his wife and their nine year old daughter were going to take a year off to sail.  What a marvelous, adventurous idea, I thought.  Since I get sea sick, the specific idea of sailing didn’t stick with me.  but the idea of taking a year off to travel did.

I held tight to that “Idea” for 20+ years; through marriage and through the birth of my two daughters.  In January 2006, I said to my husband, “If we are ever going to take “This Trip,” we better start planning it now!  These kinds of things don’t just happen; you have to make them happen.  If we don’t do this now, we probably never will.”

Traveling was a way for us to experiment with our adventurous sides.  It was an opportunity to see the world, to meet new and varied people who look at life and live life in a way that is uniquely theirs.  It would be a chance to experience history where it was made.  When you travel you are no  longer reading the book, you are the book.  You are inside a National Geographic magazine.

With the excitement of travel looming ahead of us, it never occurred to us or any of our friends and family to ask the question, “Are you running to something or running away from something?”  In our minds, travel was most definitely about what we were going TO.  However, by the time we were leaving for our one year around the world trip, it had become clear that travel  was also about what we were leaving or what we were going away FROM.  Our lives had certainly become routine and somewhat predictable.  There was comfort with that routine and predictability, but also a boredom and narrow mindedness.  Taking a year off, a year away from our lives, was a way to break our inertia.  It would create opportunities to open our minds and see things from a different perspective.  And it would give us an opportunity to step away from our day to day lives and live a life different from the one we had been living.  A trip like this would require us to step outside of our comfort zone and force us to stretch ourselves personally; we felt we would all grow as individuals and as a family from such an experience.  Clearly I’m not the only one with these thoughts.  I was tagged to write this post by  Gabi from the Nomadic Family.  She wrote in her post “Here on the road, our family has gone through a transformation, a closeness, a growth and maturity that I could have never dreamed of.”

But, remember that wherever you go, there you are.  In other words, just because you’re changing your venue, it doesn’t mean anything else about you is changing, you are just taking it on the road with you.  The same applies to your spouse, partner and kids.  If there are issues between you and your partner, they will come on the road with you – free of charge!  You don’t even have to buy a plane ticket for them.  Your hormonal daughter will still be hormonal in China (maybe more so) and your irresponsible son will still be irresponsible in Argentina.  Long term travel is not one of those things that will “fix” your “falling apart” family, your wounded marriage or your depression with your life.  It can, however, give you a fresh canvas to paint with and a new perspective to paint from.  And sometimes, that’s enough to get a new release on life.

Maybe it doesn’t make a difference whether you are traveling TO something or traveling to get away FROM something – while one or the other may be your initial motivation, the benefits/consequences on the other side will become a part of your life anyway.

The saga continue as  I now tag my friend Lainie who is traveling with her son Miro, at the moment, indefinitely.